Pope Engineering Performance (PEP) Mazdaspeed Protege 3 inch Downpipe
Pope Engineering Performance (PEP) Mazdaspeed Protege 3 inch Downpipe
Pope Engineering

Pope Engineering Performance (PEP) Mazdaspeed Protege 3 inch Downpipe

PEP_MSP_DP-03

$920.00

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When you order bifoclas or varifocals we send the frames out to you before making your prescription lenses. You will use the frames to take some important measurments. Next, you'll send back your frames free of charge so that we can produce your perfect prescription lenses. We know some other websites don't do this, but we think it's important to get your glasses right. Any questions, please do contact us!
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3″ Downpipe to replace the stock “S” and “J” pipes.

Order your PEP MSP Downpipe kit today!

  • PEP downpipes are 304SS throughout which includes the casting, tube, flange, and flex.
  • Replaces the “S” and “J” pipes with a one piece design
  • Very robust design and construction
  • Bolts to the midpipe in the stock location using a generic 2 bolt flange.
  • 4.5 mm wall thickness on the casting so it is very strong!
  • The only required modification to the car is removal of the tab on the AC compressor.

All PEP downpipes include the following additional parts:

    • Hardware Kit – Includes a 3″ exhaust gasket and 5 x 8x1.25x25mm bolts.
    • Thermostat Spacer – this is an aluminum 1/2″ thick spacer to space out the water neck. Allows the use of the stock lower radiator hose and comes with gaskets and hardware. Alternately, you can choose to upgrade to the SpeedCircuit Thermostat Outlet kit at a discounted price. This is a more elegant solution, and includes a new silicon radiator hose.

      The pipe is a tight fit and has the minimum clearance to just about anything and everything. Installing this downpipe with a stock midpipe can be done, but is not recommended as it will most likely leak and can be overly difficult to install.

      Pipes are made to order and are generally welded and generally shipped the Saturday after the order is placed.

      Installation tips

        1. Remove the radiator and thermostat housing – this isn’t 100% required, but will make the job much simpler
        2. Remove the manifold, turbo, and stock s and j pipes as a unit. Leave the oil return fitting attached to the main bearing support plate – to accomplish this remove the flexible line at either the turbo or fitting.
        3. Remove the s and j pipes from the turbo and also remove the top two turbo to downpipe studs.
        4. Install the PEP downpipe to the turbo – use the provided socket cap bolts and spacers in the upper bolt locations. The hole locations on the downpipe do not allow it to wiggle on the turbo. They will allow it to bolt on, but do not allow for any movement.
        5. Reinstall the manifold, turbo, and downpipe combo and the associated oil and coolant lines.
        6. Install the thermostat spacer. Use the provided gaskets and hardware to ensure a leak free connection
        7. Attach the midpipe using the provided gasket and hardware. In extremely rare cases, there may be leaks at the downpipe to midpipe connection. Should you experience this it is useful to loosen up the rest of the flanges throughout the exhaust and tighten things from the front to the back. This will eliminate some stress that can exist when the downpipe and midpipe are not perfectly aligned and will take care of leaks.
        8. Reinstall the radiator, intercooler, pipes, and hoses.
        9. Take a gentle test drive to ensure that everything is tip top. This pipe flows much more air than stock and depending on the routing of your vacuum system you may experience boost spikes. This is a function of the turbo building boost faster than the signal is telling the wastegate to open. Rerouting of the vacuum lines can easily solve the problem if you experience it. Also be sure to make sure that the swing valve isn't contacting the downpipe. If it is, you may need to port the downpipe inlet to make room.
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